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7 ways to make your home safer for small children

The ones worth building in during a remodel, rather than bolting on afterwards — and they cost almost nothing while the walls are open.

Curved staircase framed in place, seen from the floor above, Austin, TX

Most child-safety advice is about things you buy and stick on afterwards — latches, gates, corner bumpers. They work, and you should use them.

This list is different. These are decisions made during a remodel that you can't easily make later, and almost all of them cost little or nothing while the walls are already open.

1. Put the range controls at the front, not the back

A rear-control range means a child reaching across hot burners to get to the knobs. Front controls with a push-and-turn action are safer, and most good ranges offer a control lock.

Decide when: choosing appliances, before the cabinetry is ordered.

2. Anchor everything tall, into framing

Furniture tip-overs are a genuine hazard and the fix is simple — if someone put blocking in the wall while it was open.

Tell your builder where tall furniture, bookcases and the television will go, and have solid blocking added behind the drywall at those points. It costs almost nothing during framing and it's a real job afterwards.

Decide when: before drywall.

3. Tempered or laminated glass at low level

Code already requires safety glazing in specific locations. With small children it's worth going beyond the minimum — full-height windows, glass doors, any panel a child could run into.

Decide when: at window order. Changing it later means new glass.

4. No blind cords, anywhere

Corded blinds are a strangulation hazard, and it's one of the few genuinely serious risks on this list. Cordless or motorised blinds remove it entirely.

Motorised is far cheaper to do during a remodel because the wiring is easy while the walls are open.

Decide when: before drywall, if you want motorised.

5. Rounded stone edges and a thought about the island

A square stone edge at head height for a toddler is the thing every parent flinches at. An eased or bullnose edge profile costs the same and is much kinder.

Same thinking on the island overhang: a bar-height island puts the edge right at a small child's eye line, while a standard counter-height island is lower and safer.

Decide when: choosing stone and island design.

6. Water temperature at the source

Scald risk is real, and the fix belongs at the mixing valve rather than at the tap. Thermostatic mixing valves limit the maximum temperature that can reach a fixture at all.

Worth doing in every bathroom a child will use, and it's a plumbing decision, not a fixture one.

Decide when: at rough-in.

7. A lockable place for the things that need locking

Cleaning products, medicine, tools, knives. Rather than latching every cabinet in the house, design one or two properly lockable places and put everything that matters in them.

A tall cabinet with a real lock in the utility room, and one drawer in the kitchen, does more than twenty plastic latches — and doesn't get left open in a hurry.

Decide when: with the cabinetry drawings.

And two things that aren't worth it

  • Child-safe flooring. There's no such thing. Rugs where they play, and don't spend extra on the floor for this reason.
  • Building for a stage that ends. Toddlers are toddlers for about three years. Don't design a house around it — build in the things that don't cost anything to build in, and use gates and latches for the rest.

The pattern

The items here that matter are the ones inside the walls: blocking, mixing valves, blind wiring. Everything else you can add later. Those three you can't, and nobody thinks to ask for them.

If you have small children and you're remodeling, tell your builder. It's a five-minute conversation and most of it is free.

Next

Remodeling with small children?

Tell us on the first visit. Most of this list costs nothing if we know before the walls close up.

Common questions

Child safety, answered

What is worth building in during a remodel?

Anything that lives inside a wall — blocking for gates, tamper-resistant outlets, anti-scald valves, and hardware that cannot be unscrewed. These cost almost nothing while the walls are open and are expensive or ugly to add later. A gate that screws into blocking is a different object from one that pressure-fits across a stair.

The list on this page is ordered by how much harder each item gets once drywall is up.

Are there code requirements, or is this optional?

Some of it is code, and the rest is judgment. Tamper-resistant receptacles, guard spacing on stairs and railings, window fall protection in some situations, and pool barrier requirements are code. Cabinet latches, corner treatment and anti-tip anchoring are not.

We build the code items as a matter of course and will point out the optional ones at the drawings stage.

Does any of it have to look like child-proofing?

No, and the good versions do not. Soft-close hardware, a full-height panel instead of an open stair side, a rounded stone edge profile, integrated latches inside cabinet doors — all of it disappears into the design.

The visible plastic version is what you buy when the walls are already closed.

Page specification

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/blog/child-safety-home-remodel/
Title tag
7 Ways to Make Your Home Safer for Small Children (49)
Meta
Seven changes that make a house genuinely safer for small children, from stair and window hardware to the two rooms worth rethinking entirely. (142)
Your title
"7 ways to make your house more kids proof" — reworded to how people search it
Schema
Article
The angle
Every other article on this topic sells latches and gates. This one is about what happens inside the walls — which only a builder can tell you, and only before drywall.
Audience
Young families are a large share of the Austin remodeling market and almost nobody writes for them
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